I’d like to talk a bit about reactive dogs. And about dog etiquette in general.
First off, this is by no means a criticism of any individual. I think the only people who have a certain level of understanding of dog etiquette are people who are living that reactive dog owner life, and only some of them at that, so there’s no expectation for you to know things or even remember everything I’m about to share.
I’m going to split this post in separate sections for general information for all people and then the other section for people who own reactive dogs.
General information.
Please always ask for consent before approaching a dog even if it looks friendly. This goes especially for service animals but it’s a good practice to apply it to all dogs because you never know. A lot of conventional “common sense” about interpreting dog behavior and moods is not quite right. For example, the speed and direction of a wagging tail can indicate whether a dog is happy, nervous (think of how humans laugh when they’re nervous!), or aggressive. Some owners are trying to teach their dog a specific greeting protocol, or maybe their dog is unpredictable when you cross their space bubble, so please get the handler’s consent.
If you see a dog handler make an abrupt U-turn and walk away from you or pull their dog across the street, they probably have a reactive dog. Of course you don’t have to change your route but it is super helpful and much appreciated if you turn around and go the opposite direction as well. If you can’t, please try to give them a wide berth.
Please don’t encourage dogs to jump on you or say, “oh no, it’s OK, I don’t mind, I’m dog-friendly.” You might not be afraid of dogs but someone else probably is, and the dog will not necessarily know to behave differently towards someone who is dog-averse. True, the other person probably has a smell of fear that you don’t have, but dogs, especially the excited ones, won’t always treat them differently. A generally good thing to do is to take a step back and turn to the side until the dog has stopped jumping.
Bonus: when visiting someone else’s house, if their dogs try to jump you at the door, please turn away and ignore them until they are calmer. This can be quite an inconvenience, unfortunately, but the more people that do this, the sooner these investments in the dog’s behavior pay off.
Conversely, don’t try to help train the dog unless you’re following directions from the handler. Don’t knee the dog in the chest or something.
If the handler says it’s okay, allow the dog to approach you instead of getting into their space. If they’re a bit shy, hold out your hand for them to come sniff. If they’re not so shy, they’re probably going to try to sniff your crotch area, please try to understand that this is considered polite behavior for a dog. Which isn’t to say that jumping is an impolite or dominant behavior—I heard from somewhere on the internet that a study found that dogs are aware that humans are different from dogs (which is why we generally don’t train dogs by mimicking dog behavior)—we just don’t want to encourage the dog to do things that can be scary for other people.
I almost forgot one more thing: don’t stare at dogs. With the exception of their own household members, dogs usually do not like being stared at.
Reactive dog owners.
First, it’s really rough (no pun intended) to care for a reactive dog, especially when the dog is over 40 pounds. We do get sympathetic looks but we also get eyed nervously, sometimes dirty looks, or judgmental or critical comments (comments probably mostly online but it still stings, right?), and shame can be a big stressor. These are also the hardest dogs to rehome. Kudos to you for not giving up on your dog, it takes a lot of love. Your emotional health is just as important as your dog’s emotions. Your serenity and stability can make a marked difference in your dog’s behavior. Some trainers will even ask their classes to do meditative exercises with their dogs.
Second, IT IS JUST AS IMPORTANT TO MANAGE SMALL DOGS as large dogs. The only difference between them is that one is more socially tolerable for other humans. The reactive small dog is having big emotions of fear and panic or rage just as much as the reactive large dog. I think we all want our dogs to be happy and have a good sense of what is normal and okay, not triggered by everyday things. Can you imagine what it’d be like to be uncontrollably explosive every time you saw another person, but you had to see other people regularly and you couldn’t go to therapy to develop coping skills? That’s a pretty miserable existence. The more you allow your dog to react, the more its stress and reactivity is reinforced. A calm dog is a happy dog.
Please try to avoid situations where there is a high probability of a trigger. For me, if I could keep my husky at home, I would, but, well, he’s a husky. If you have to go for walks, which I do so I fully sympathize, try to find a time or area when there are fewer triggers, or when your dog is in a better mood. Try to get an idea of your dog’s reactivity distance (does the trigger have to be a soccer field away, a block away, on the other side of the street, 20 ft?). If you see a trigger, do a U-turn if you can. If you can’t (e.g. there are triggers coming from both sides or because you need to make it home by a certain time), try to get through as quick as you can. If your dog is reacting to another person or their dog, especially if they’re also changing directions or crossing the street to try to get their reactive dog away from yours, please don’t follow them. Even if they’re between you and home, unless it’s urgent please at least stop and wait for the other person to get out of range.
There are other things you can try to make it through situations. You can distract your dog and give them something to do, which could be sit/down exercises, tricks, some handlers train their dogs to put their feet up on something on command which gets the dog to turn away from the street and towards a non-triggering building or object . Small dogs can be picked up (unless the dog hates being picked up, then don’t). Allowing your dog to sniff around can help calm your dog, and you can encourage this by sprinkling food in nearby grass. These may or may not work for your dog, everyone’s different. Generally they do favor dogs that are reactive out of fear and not dogs like mine who want to chase everything that moves (oddly enough he was fine and friendly when another husky snuck up on him when she was off leash—I’ve only had him a few months so I’m still figuring out what his issue is, I guess).
More advanced tools include desensitization, mat training, building new associations with triggers (e.g. Look At That training), and pattern games. My primary resource is Control Unleashed: The Puppy Program but there are video tutorials available here and there online that you can also look into. One really important thing to know with this as with any other behavior modification is that progress is not linear and temporary regression is normal. Consistency is important but so is forgiving yourself for mistakes and bad days. These are things that I’m either still working on or haven’t started teaching to my dog yet, but that can hopefully someday replace the need to U-turn, drive to different areas, or wake up early for your dog walks.
Hopefully my post has been somewhat educational or otherwise helpful for creating a more positive public environment for everyone.